I grew up, and have fond memories of, the neighborhood Mom and Pop bakery. Whether it’s was an Italian pastry shop in Flatbush or the German bread baker in Glendale, you knew you were getting and eating authentic, family recipes that had been passed down and perfected through a lineage that could be traced directly back to “the old country.”
Such places almost no longer exist, with the Wonder Breads and Hostesses of the world able to cheaply mass produce tasteless and non-nutritious drivel that somehow passes as food. It’s difficult to fathom which is worse: that people eat this sh- sh- sh- stuff or that they don’t know what they are missing.
Vegan bakeries come in many shapes and sizes: from the all-natural “healthy” style that won’t use white flour or white sugar to the over-the-top and colorful, offering treats that may not be any healthier than their cholesterol-laden cousins, but are OK to indulge in on special occasions. Just don’t let Dr. Furhman catch you.
Allegro Vegan Bakery & Sandwich Shop in Pittsburgh’s Squirrel Hill doesn’t fit either category. It’s a throwback to the traditional neighborhood shoppe, with the look, ambiance, aromas, and tastes of the classic old-school family bakery that 50-60 years ago could be found on nearly every block in any urban neighborhood. Allegro just happens to create its magic without butter, milk, or eggs.
Owner Omar Abuhejleh took over the bakery 20 years ago, when neither he nor it was yet vegan. At the time, Allegro had a robust wholesale business, supplying other eateries in addition to its retail storefront. Then came COVID. By this time, Abuhejleh’s diet had transitioned. He got out of the wholesale business and re-invented Allegro as a vegan bakery and sandwich shop. Today, it is a destination for any humane traveler. It’s that good.
I stopped in on a Sunday morning, having never been before, and to say I was pleasantly surprised would be a significant understatement. Quite simply, I felt as if I’d been transported back to my childhood. And this was even before I’d sampled anything. The joint was bustling, the shelves, while still amply stocked, had obviously been been picked over (note to self: if you want a chocolate croissant, arrive earlier), and the smells were intoxicating to at least this scribe who is cursed with a sinful sweet tooth.
Allegro is take-away only. I ordered a box of treats to photograph (and sample!) later plus a loaf of organic sourdough. I lived in San Francisco for 20-plus years and this was the best sourdough I’ve ever had outside of the city … and better than many within its 49-square-mile limits.
I may have eaten half the loaf before I arrived at my next stop, the Duquesne Incline (see page 41), six miles away. There’s nothing like fresh, warm bread that needs nothing on it. This loaf was heaven: a faultlessly crisp crust covering an airy interior coupled with that unmistakable sourdough tang. When a food is made by hands, not machines, one can immediately taste the difference.
My blueberry muffin was a bit like a mini two-layer cake. The bottom had a dense abundance of blueberries, slightly overcooked though still enjoyable, while the crumb topping—easily half the muffin—was sweet without being overly sweet.
The cinnamon roll was equally as good (see photo above); quite possibly the best I’ve ever had and certainly the most unforgettable. In addition to the usually circular “swirl” starting from the middle, the rolled dough itself was flaky, seemingly made up of ten separate layers that you could actually separate, much like filo dough. It was also huge, big enough to feed two or eat in multiple seatings, which I did.
Likewise, the rugelach was flaky and buttery; it could easily fool a non-vegan. Abuhejleh has perfected that light, thin crisp dough, found in the best pastries, that he bakes using his own proprietary butter, made with sunflower seeds, oats, and coconut—meaning both soy- and palm-free—that took him “years” to perfect. When he first described it to me, and before I’d sampled any goods, I questioned why he didn’t sell the butter, even going as far as name-checking another popular vegan butter easily found today. He said he’d have to scale up production, as he uses all he can currently make in the shop.
After trying a few of his baked goods, I’m now a bit embarrassed that I made the suggestion. While I still believe the butter would be a hit and sell well, it’s obviously the (now not so) secret ingredient that elevates Allegro’s baked goods to such a high level, where everything is made from scratch, including the ‘meats’ and ‘cheeses’ in its sandwiches.
Only in town a short while, and leaving with a box of baked goods and the loaf of sourdough, I didn’t have time to sample a sandwich. What all this means is I’ll just have to find any reason to get back to Pittsburgh so I have an excuse to swing by Allegro again.
Allegro is open six days a week; closed Mondays.
Visit the website for current hours.
2034 Murray Ave, Squirrel Hill, Pittsburgh, PA
